A journey into Wallonia and the Belgian Ardenne
Located only a short drive from Belgium’s capital city Brussels, Wallonia and the Ardenne is a region often overlooked by British holidaymakers. Carrie Drage visits this French-speaking part of southern Belgium to discover why it has plenty to rival its more popular Flemish counterpart, particularly from a group perspective.
Wallonia – including the heavily forested slopes of the Belgian Ardenne – is a relatively unexplored region among British travellers, a fact perhaps surprising considering its accessibility from the UK. Its lush forests, striking river valleys and fortified cities provide countless opportunities for sightseeing and outdoor pursuits, whilst its status as a gourmet destination means that there is ample opportunity to indulge in good food and drink. The roads in Belgium are never busy, making it easy to travel between destinations, yet it is never dull here, with many festivals taking place year-round.
Introducing Wallonia
Wallonia is a region rich in contrasts. The Ardenne, which stretches across the provinces of Namur, Liege and Luxembourg in the south east of Wallonia, is characterised by dense forests, fast-flowing rivers and steep-sided valleys, and is popular among European holidaymakers, particularly the German and the Dutch. Outside of the Ardenne, in the provinces of Hainaut and Walloon Brabant, the land is relatively low lying; however, there is just as much to see and do here.
Starting in this area, the Dubuisson micro-brewery, in Pipaix, is a family concern that produces the Bush brand. Guides can be pre-booked for a tour, which begins with a short video presentation on the history of the micro-brewery and the fermentation process, and ends with a tasting.
Nicknamed the Versailles of Belgium, Chateau de Beloeil has been the residence of the Princes of Ligne, a noble family in Belgium, since the late 14th century. Every year in early May, the castle stages a week-long floral show where the rooms are decorated with displays of orchids and amaryllis, thus signalling the beginning of spring. GTOs can arrange a guide to accompany your group on a tour of the castle and a ride round the lake on a land train can also be incorporated into a visit here.
Under an hour’s drive east of Beloeil, Tournai is a good destination for group members to be given free reign. The city has plenty to occupy the various interests of your group whether it be relaxing in one of the many pavement cafes that surround the cobbled main square or taking a ride through the city streets on a Land Train, which travels as far as the Pont des Trous, a well-preserved medieval bridge. The focal point of the city is the cathedral of Notre Dame de Tournai, designated a UNSECO World Heritage Site together with the nearby Belfry, the oldest in Belgium. Groups can view the cathedral’s interior as part of a tour. The city of Tournai also offers a choice of seven museums, which are laid out on a circular route and are thus easily navigable.
Near the town of La Louviere, the Historic Canal du Centre features four hydraulic boat lifts and is designated a UNSECO World Heritage Site. A popular option for groups is the two-hour round trip that incorporates a journey alongside the canal on a land train, a guided tour of the Engine Room to learn how the boat lifts are powered purely by water, and a canal cruise through one or more of the boat lifts.
Continuing into Wallonia, the Distillerie du Biercee, near Thuin, gives visitors an insight into how 10 kilogrammes of fruit can be transformed into one bottle of brandy or liqueur. A visit to the working distillery with its striking copper stills and a tasting session in the Grange des Belges (Belgian barn) form part of a guided tour here.
Close by, Chateau du Fosteau has been furnished with a permanent exhibition of antique furniture, complemented with a display of contemporary art. Groups can explore the house on a guided tour with the owner, which also extends into the French style gardens.
Located on the outskirts of Villers-la-Ville, Villers Abbey is a former Cistercian abbey that was abandoned in the 18th century. Groups can explore the ruins on a variety of themed guided tours.
Namur
Set on the confluence of the rivers Sambre and Meuse, Namur, in the province of the same name, is both the capital of Wallonia and the gateway to the Belgian Ardenne. One of its biggest tourist attractions is the imposing Citadel, which stands high on a rock overlooking the town. Groups can explore the ramparts by foot or land train; the underground passages may also be navigated by guided tour.
Only a short drive from Namur, Annevoie Gardens was created in the 18th century. The symmetry and perspective typical of the French pleasure gardens creates a strong contrast to the English and Italian influences added during the 19th century. Groups can take a guided tour of the garden to learn more about its features.
Dinant
Continuing downstream along the River Meuse brings you to the small town of Dinant. The bulbous spire of the Cathedral of Notre Dame is what distinguishes this town from others in Belgium, as is the Bayard rock. Boutique shopping in the narrow streets and riverboat cruising are just some of the activities on offer here. Alternatively, groups may like to visit the Citadel, which can be accessed via a steep cable car ride.
Just south of Dinant, Chateau de Freyr dates from the 1600s. The current owners are descendents of the Dukes of Beaufort-Spontin who first took up residence here in the 18th century, and groups can arrange a private tour of the house with a member of this family. Highlights include the Renaissance dining room with its bluestone fireplace.
The Ardenne boasts a number of subterranean cave systems; however, the limestone caves of Han sur Lesse are arguably among the most impressive. A guide leads you through the chambers where you will see stalagmites and stalactites, together with formations known as curtains. These resemble folded sheets and are shaped by water running down the side of the cave. The tour ends with a sound and light show.
Saint Hubert
Moving to the Luxembourg province, the city of Saint Hubert, which geologically sits at the heart of the Belgian Ardenne, has proclaimed itself the ‘European Capital of Hunting and Nature’. Each year, on the first weekend in September, a hunting festival takes place here with much of the celebrations centred around the basilica. Hornblowers in traditional dress play a large part in the festivities. On a visit to Saint Hubert, groups may like to take a guided tour of the Gothic-style Basilica to learn more about its history, architecture and the legend surrounding Saint Hubert.
Also in the vicinity, groups will find Fourneau St Michel, the museum of rural life in Wallonia. Historic buildings from across southern Belgium have been rebuilt here to show how people lived during the period from the start of the French Revolution in 1753 to Belgium’s Independence in 1830. Guided tours of the site can be pre-booked for groups.
La Roche-en-Ardenne
As one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Belgian Ardenne, La Roche-en-Ardenne presents numerous possibilities for visiting groups. A good way for your members to familiarise themselves with the town is to take a ride on the land train. For an extra charge, GTOs can arrange a guide to come onboard. Sat on a rocky crag high above the town is a medieval Castle, which offers a good vantage point over the Ourthe valley and river that gently meanders through the centre of La Roche. Groups can arrange a bespoke package here that includes an evening tour of the castle with a costumed medieval guide and a tasting session. Whilst in the town, groups may also like to visit Gres de La Roche, a museum dedicated to La Roche blue stoneware. An audio tour guides visitors through the various production processes. A highlight for many visitors to the town is the Musee de la Bataille des Ardennes, a museum that recognises the contribution of British troops during the Battle of the Bulge in 1944. A guide can be arranged for groups who will tailor your visit to emphasise the role of the British troops during the battle. Another experience available for World War II enthusiasts is a flying tour themed on the Battle of the Bulge. Available from Air Loisirs, the plane departs from nearby Saint Hubert aerodrome and offers groups of up to 15 people at a time a birds eye view of 10 strategic points in the battle. An inflight audio provides a narrative on some of the human stories.
Only a short drive from La Roche, Durbuy is commonly referred to as the smallest city in the world. It is a good place for groups to spend some free time as its winding cobbled streets boast ancient houses and fine boutiques. One of Durbuy’s biggest draws is Parc des Topiaires, a topiary park which occupies a prime position along the River Ourthe. Members might also like to visit the Saint-Amour Jam Factory.
Located in a small village just outside Erezee is the artisan chocolatier, Defroidmont, a business founded in 1984 by husband and wife team Philippe and Christiane Defroidmont. Here, groups can take a guided tour of the building, which begins with an exhibition area detailing the various processes involved in chocolate making and ends with a tasting of the products.
With its chequerboard facade, Chateau de Jehay, a 16th century moated castle near Huy, in the Liege province, is undoubtedly one of the most distinguishable buildings in southern Belgium. Items that belonged to the castle’s former owner, Count Guy van den Steen, can be seen on display here including an impressive collection of English furniture. Groups can explore the castle and surrounding parkland by guided or audio tour.
How to get there
For many groups, the easiest way to travel to Belgium is by coach. P&O Ferries and Seafrance offer regular crossings between Dover and Calais, whilst Norfolkline runs crossings between Dover and Dunkirk. From Calais, the journey time to Tournai – the first town in Wallonia – is about one and a half hours. For groups based in the north of England, P&O Ferries also operates an overnight Hull – Zeebrugge route. Another alternative is to travel by coach via Eurotunnel from Folkestone to Calais.
By rail, Eurostar operates regular services to Brussels Midi Station from London’s St Pancras International and Ebbsfleet in Kent. The journey time is less than two hours and tickets enable you to travel on to any other station in Belgium at no extra cost.
Another option is to travel by air. Scheduled flights operate from many UK airports to Brussels National airport and Charleroi airport, roughly 30 miles south of Brussels. Carriers that operate these routes include bmi, British Airways, Brussels Airlines, FLY VLM and Ryanair.
Our thanks to Simply Groups, P&O Ferries, Floreal Le Panoramique, Leonardo Hotel Namur, Le Val de Poix Hotel and Floreal La Roche for their hospitality to Carrie Drage during her visit to Belgium.