A whirl around Vienna
Brenda Watkinson visits the Austrian capital and discovers a cultural destination packed with opulent architecture, unusual visitor attractions and a proud musical heritage – a destination well worth considering for your next European city break, especially as 2009 will mark the 200th anniversary of the composer Haydn’s death.
As a result of the expansion of the European Union, Vienna now lies in the heart of new Europe. Situated on the banks of the river Danube, the city epitomises the opulence of the golden age of the Habsburgs, with fabulous historic houses and palaces, museums and galleries full of priceless art and amazing artefacts, beautiful coffee houses and attractions such as the Spanish Riding School and the Vienna Boys’ Choir. In fact, it was as a member of the Vienna Boys’ Choir that the eminent composer, Joseph Haydn, started his career and, in 2009, the city will be commemorating the 200th anniversary of his death, with many special events detailed at the end of this feature.
Vienna is very easy to explore as most of the city’s famous sights are within a short distance of the city centre and can be reached by public transport or on foot. As with any large city, it is worthwhile organising a guided tour soon after settling into your hotel, so that your members can decide how to make the most of their holiday. The Vienna Sightseeing Hop-on Hop-off bus tour is another option; there are 14 stops altogether and commentaries are in both German and English. It is also worth noting that a ‘Vienna Card’ (valid for 72 hours) can be purchased from hotels and other outlets around the city, giving unlimited travel on buses, underground trains and trams, as well as discounts at 210 of the city’s attractions. With regards to group discounts, there are no set reductions, so it is worth contacting individual attractions to discuss your visit.
Historic houses and palaces
Vienna’s history dates back to the 1st century AD when the Romans established their military camp, Vindobona. To gain an insight into this Roman era, a new Roman Museum opened in May, in Hoher Market, on the site where, nearly 2,000 years ago, Roman legionaries lived and worked. The museum looks at life in Vindobona with two recreated officers’ houses on display in the basement of the exhibition, along with some 300 archaeological finds from the site. The Romans gradually withdrew from the city around 400AD, leaving it to be ruled by various dynasties.
In 1278, Rudolf II of Habsburg began one of the longest dynastic rules in European history lasting some six centuries. During this time, many
of the city’s historic houses and palaces were built, particularly during the reign of Empress Maria Theresia and Emperor Franz Joseph. Not to be missed is the Ring Boulevard (Ringstrasse), a four kilometre-long boulevard that circles the city centre. It was built on the orders of Franz Joseph and completed in the 1880s to link the many political and cultural institutions in the city. Here, you will see magnificent buildings such as the Academy of Applied Arts, the Parliament, the Town Hall, the University and the Burgtheater.
As you tour the Ringstrasse, one highlight is the Imperial Palace, the Hofburg, which was the former winter residence of the Habsburgs. Originally a medieval castle, the Hofburg was extended as the Habsburgs’ power increased. Nowadays, this magnificent residence is home to the National Library (Osterreichische Nationalbibliothek), the Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer), the Museum of Ethnography (Museum fur Volkerkunde) and also the famous Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule), the oldest and last riding school in the world where classic dressage is still practised in its purest form. This institute was founded in 1572 and the Lipizzaner breed is regarded to be the oldest classic horse in Europe. Tickets for performances are often booked up months in advance and there are no performances in July and August. For groups interested in architecture, the Hofburg features many different design styles from gothic to art nouveau, which are showcased in the extensions to the original building.
In contrast, the architecture of the nearby Belvedere Palaces is typical Rococo-style. They were constructed for Prince Eugene of Savoy by J.L. von Hildebrandt, a famous Baroque architect. Today, both palaces house galleries featuring Austrian paintings; in the lower palace, the Austrian Museum of Baroque Art (Osterreichisches Barockmuseum) displays Austrian art from the 18th century, while the upper palace houses the Austrian Gallery (Osterreichische Galerie) with its collection of 19th and 20th century Austrian paintings, including works by Klimt and Kokoschka, as well as famous paintings by Schiele. In the Palace Park, Europe’s first alpine garden was created in 1803 and today features more than 4,000 plants representing the diverse flora of the alpine ecosystem.
On the outskirts of the city, one of Vienna’s most popular attractions is Schloss Schoenbrunn, a quintessentially baroque palace built to rival the Palace of Versailles, in France. It is surrounded by a classically landscaped garden, which includes a maze as well as one of the world’s oldest zoos, Zoo Vienna, founded in 1752. Two audio guided tours of the Palace are available, which are included in the admission fee – the ‘Imperial’ tour visiting 22 rooms or the ‘Grand’ tour visiting 40 rooms. Alternatively, a full guided tour can be arranged in English by prior arrangement, both inside and outside normal opening hours. Highlights include the Great Gallery, once the venue for imperial banquets, and the Mirrors Room, where six-year old Mozart performed his first royal concert in front of Empress Maria Theresa.
Museums and galleries
Vienna boasts a number of highly acclaimed museums and galleries. One of the best places to start exploring the museums of Vienna is the MuseumsQuartier, a vast cultural centre near the Imperial Palace. The complex includes the renowned Leopold Museum, with its numerous works by Schiele, the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Kunsthalle, as well as a good mix of restaurants, cafes and bars.
Nearby, the Museum of Fine Arts (Kunsthistorisches Museum) was built in 1891 to house the extensive collections of the imperial family. As well as the largest Bruegel collection in the world, the museum houses many masterpieces of European art history, including Raphael’s ‘Madonna in the Meadow’, Vermeer’s ‘The Allegory of Painting’, the Infanta paintings by Velazquez and works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Durer, Titian and Tintoretto. For something unusual, why not arrange to take your group to an Art Brunch or a Buffet Dinner held regularly in the Cupola Hall of the Museum. The Museum of Natural History, with its much visited Dinosaur Hall, is also well worth visiting. The two museums stand opposite each other and were built as mirror images of each other, according to the designs of the famous Viennese architects, Gottfried Semper and Karl von Hasenauer.
Within walking distance of the Natural History Museum, the Albertina Museum of Graphic Art contains more than one million prints and 60,000 drawings. Famous works such as Durer’s ‘The Field Hare’ and ‘Hands folded for Prayer’, Rubens’s studies of children, as well as masterworks of Schiele, Cezanne, Klimt, Kokoschka, Picasso and Rauschenberg are shown in changing exhibitions.
Overlooking the city
One of Vienna’s landmarks, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, is a ‘must’ when visiting the city. Work began in 1147 in Romanesque style and, for a long time, the cathedral was believed to be Europe’s tallest building at over 130 metres. In the 14th century, Duke Rudolph IV of Habsburg ordered a complete rebuilding of the cathedral, this time in Gothic style to include two towers. The unusually high south tower was quite rare in Gothic architecture, while the north tower remained incomplete until the 16th century when it was built in the Renaissance style. Inside the cathedral, visitors will find many art treasures, while below ground are the catacombs. The cathedral is open daily and tours of the church, the catacombs and both towers can be arranged. It should be noted that a lift services the north tower; however, there is a climb of nearly 400 steps to the top of the south tower.
It would be a shame to be in Vienna and not visit the Prater, the city’s leisure park. Here, you will find something for everyone. On one side of the Prater, an entertainment park offers more than 250 attractions, ranging from the Giant Ferris Wheel and roller coasters to nostalgic ghost trains, merry-go-rounds, go-cart rides and amusement arcades. A ride on the Giant Ferris Wheel will take you to a height of 64 metres for a fantastic view of the city. On the other side, ‘Green Prater’ is a spacious forest and meadow area in the heart of the city, an ideal space for walkers, runners, cyclists and horseriders. An easy way to explore the ‘Green Prater’ is to take a ride on the miniature railway, the Liliputbahn, which travels more than three miles around this green oasis. It is worth noting that the Prater is free to visit; you pay only for the rides and amusements.
A musical metropolis
Vienna owes much of its international fame to the many celebrated composers who lived and worked in the city including Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss and Haydn. The city also boasts the world famous Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, the celebrated opera house, Staatsoper, and highly-acclaimed Vienna Boys’ Choir.
In 2009, the city will be commemorating the 200th anniversary of the death of Joseph Haydn who was one of the most eminent composers of his time. Today, he has been overshadowed by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, to whom he was a fatherly friend, and Ludwig van Beethoven, one of his pupils. With more than 1,200 compositions during his lifetime, Haydn is known by many as the composer of today’s German National Anthem. After working for the Princes Esterhazy in today’s Burgenland and Hungary, Hadyn returned to Vienna where he enjoyed his world renown – which still endures – for 19 years.
Probably the best way to learn about this famous composer is by visiting Haydn House. Home to the classical composer for 12 years, this is where Haydn wrote most of his later works, including the oratorios ‘The Creation’ and ‘The Seasons’. Today, the house has been restored to look how it would have done in Haydn’s era. An exhibition concentrates on the last years of the composer’s life, his personal relationships and his place in Viennese society. A highlight for visitors is one of the last grand pianos that he played before his death. The House will close on 22 December this year for refurbishment and will re-open as part of the Haydn Year 2009 celebrations on 28 January. It is advisable to check opening dates and times before travelling.
The Haydn theme continues at Vienna’s interactive sound museum, the House of Music. Located in a former Habsburg palace near the Staatsoper, the museum has dedicated a a room to the life and works of Haydn. Visitors to the museum can also learn how various musical instruments work and can try composition, conducting and playing. A big draw is the virtual orchestra where you can take a baton and conduct the Vienna Philharmonic on a large screen to the score of the Blue Danube or Radetzky March. If successful, the orchestra will reward the newcomer with applause; however, if the tempo is off, the players down instruments with cries of disapproval.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral also has links with the composer Haydn. For nine years, he sang in the Vienna Boys’ Choir in the cathedral and, much later, married Maria Anna Keller here too.
Whilst in Vienna, you might also catch a ‘glimpse’ of Joseph Haydn as he crosses the bridge of the Anchor Clock. Built between 1911 and 1917, the clock forms a bridge between two parts of the Anker Insurance Company’s building. It is situated on the oldest square in Vienna, Hoher Markt, and represents a typical Art Nouveau design. Over a 12-hour period, 12 historical figures move across the bridge including Joseph Haydn, medieval lyricist Walther von der Vogelweide, Empress Maria Theresa and Prince Eugen of Savoya. Every day at noon, all figures parade accompanied by music from their various eras.
From April until October 2009, Vienna guides will be offering city walks in the footsteps of Haydn, which will be another excellent way to learn all about this most famous composer.
How to get there
There are several options for groups wishing to fly to Vienna. Austrian Airlines operates daily flights from London Heathrow and London City (weekdays only), British Airways flies from London Heathrow, Air Berlin from London Stansted and Easyjet from London Luton. After your flight to Vienna International Airport, it is only a 16-minute ride on the City Airport Train into central Vienna. Trains depart half-hourly from 6am until 11pm.
It is also worth noting that Bratislava, in Slovenia, is within easy reach of Vienna. Ryanair operates daily flights to Bratislava from London Stansted, while Sky Europe runs regular services from London Luton, Birmingham and Manchester. The approximate bus transfer time from Bratislava to Vienna is one and a half hours.
Many groups also travel to Vienna by coach from the UK. The journey time is between 17 and 19 hours, although most groups choose to have one or two stops en route.
Harold says… “Vienna is a great city to explore on foot. You’ll see more of the city and enjoy its architecture and culture if you allow your group time to wander – and you’ll reduce your carbon footprint. If you are booking group meals try to use local restaurants and avoid the tourist traps – your group will have a better experience of Vienna and you will be contributing to the local economy. Encourage your group to buy local arts and souvenirs – they will enjoy the opportunity.”
Harold Goodwin, ICRT Leeds Metropolitan University www.icrtourism.org</font color=“#990099”>
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION
Austrian National Tourist Office
9-11 Richmond Buildings
London W1D 3HF
Telephone: 020 7440 3830
Fax: 020 7440 3848
Email: london@austria.info
Web: www.austria.info
The UK celebrates Vienna and Haydn
The 200th anniversary of Haydn’s death is being celebrated in the UK too, with several concerts and musical events. To start the celebrations, on 21st December, the London Symphony Orchestra will be performing a concert at the Barbican Hall, London. ‘Last Words: Haydn London Symphony’ will include a performance of Haydn’s 104th Symphony. For groups of 10 or more, incentives can include 20% off standard ticket prices, free tea and coffee vouchers, free pre-concert talks and discounted pre-concert meals at the Barbican Centre’s Searcy’s restaurant, depending on the number of tickets purchased.
Between February and March 2009, the London Symphony Orchestra’s Old Street venue, LSO St Luke’s, will be running four Haydn lunchtime concerts in association with BBC Radio 3.
On a similar theme, the Philharmonia Orchestra, based at London’s Southbank Centre, will be performing three concerts in 2009. On 8th March at De Montfort Hall in Leicester, both Haydn and Mendelssohn will be performed, while concerts concentrating solely on the music of Haydn will be performed at the Bedford Corn Exchange on 23rd June and the Southbank Centre’s Royal Festival Hall in London on 25th June.
Another way to appreciate the music and culture of Vienna between 1900 and 1935 is to attend a ‘City of Dreams: Vienna 1900-1935’ concert, which will be staged at Southbank Centre’s Royal Festival Hall in London, Symphony Hall in Birmingham, De Montfort Hall in Leicester and The Anvil in Basingstoke from February until June 2009. For these concerts, group discounts vary but can be as high as 25% discount when booking 10 or more tickets. This project, a co-production between the Philharmonia Orchestra and the Vienna Konzerthaus, will present the music of Mahler and his contemporaries in its historical and social context, as well as in the context of the art, craft, design, architecture, literature, philosophy and science of the period. As well as concerts in more than 20 cities worldwide, ‘Explore Vienna’ days featuring talks and chamber music performances in both London and Leicester will be held.
1. copyright Osterreich Werbung/Lammerhuber
2. copyright Osterreich Werbung/Diejun
3. copyright Osterreich Werbung/Diejun
4. copyright Wein Tourismus/Robert Alexander Herbst
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