Malta: an island of many faces
Abbe Bates visits the Mediterranean island of Malta to uncover its 7,000 year history and in the process, discovers its many group offerings.
The island of Malta is found around 93 kilometres to the south of Sicily and 300 kilometres north of Africa, in the centre of the Mediterranean. Together with the neighbouring islands of Gozo and Comino, it makes up the Maltese islands and manages to keep a sense of many of its different influences, picked up due to its important strategic position at the heart of numerous Mediterranean sea routes. From the ancient peoples who are said to have begun building in Malta around 5000 BC, through the Knights of St. John in the 16th century and the British rule throughout the 19th and part of the 20th century to its independence in 1964, an eclectic range of cultures have left their mark. With its megalithic temples, religious monuments and golden limestone, groups will certainly not be short of cultural experiences during a stay.
Coming from the UK, you’ll still see many throwbacks from British rule such as red telephone and pillar boxes, and as English is also an official language here, most people speak it. The Maltese language, Malti, is an interesting mix of linguistic influences – largely Arabic sounding due to the Arab conquering of the island in the 9th century, it also features parts of Italian, French and English dialect.
Malta covers about 36 square miles so is relatively easy to cover but it is advisable to book a guide during your visit, who will be able to accompany you to places of interest by foot and on board your coach. Group rates to attractions can be arranged through licensed tour operators.
The new capital, Valletta
Although Valletta is the ‘new’ capital of Malta, its construction was actually begun in 1566 by the Christian Knights of the Order of St. John, and it bears the name of the French Grand Master (the Grand Master was the elected leader of the Knights) who successfully defended the islands against the Ottomans during the Great Siege. One of the world’s first planned cities, it is constructed in a grid-like style, with criss crossing, undulating streets and sits overlooking the Grand Harbour.
One of the first ports of call for your group should be The Malta Experience. This 45-minute audio visual show provides a detailed account of Malta’s history that will put into context the further attractions you are likely to see on a visit.
St John’s Co-Cathedral is one of Valletta’s main landmarks and a testament to the Knights of St. John. Formerly known as the Conventual Church of the Order, the Cathedral was designed by Gerolamo Cassar, the Order’s chief architect-engineer and built during the latter part of the 16th century. The Order was made up of eight langues (although by the time they built Valletta this had been reduced to seven) – sections of the Order that each spoke a different language – and on either side of the nave is a series of chapels that represent these. Also of particular interest are two masterpieces by Caravaggio, the ‘Beheading of St. John the Baptist’ and ‘St. Jerome’, that hang in the Oratory and the Cathedral also has its own museum.
Each langue of the Order had its own auberge (or national inn) in which the lower-graded knights could lodge. Any meetings of the same langue could also be held here along with festivities connected to each individual nationality. The Auberge de Castille is amongst the remaining auberges in Valletta and one of the most impressive, remodelled during the magistracy of Grand Master Pinto in 1744 and featuring his bust and coat of arms on its facade. The building is now the office of the Prime Minister and is not open to the public, but it is still worth admiring from the outside.
Another important building in Valletta’s history is the former Grand Masters Palace, now known as The President’s Palace as it has become the seat of the Maltese President and Parliament. Originally another of Gerolamo Cassar’s designs, it was completed in 1580. The Armoury here can be visited and showcases a number of pieces including the gold plated armour of Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt, made between 1610 and 1620.
Another of these auberges, the Auberge de Provence, now houses the National Museum of Archaeology, containing collections of objects found at the main Neolithic, prehistoric, Punic and Roman sites on the islands.
Dating from the 18th century period of the Order is The Manoel Theatre, built in 1731 and bearing the name of the Grand Master at the time, Antonio Manoel de Vilhena. Said to be one of the oldest theatres in Europe, groups can enjoy various dramatic performances here.
For an insight into Maltese nobility, the Casa Rocca Piccola is a 16th century palace and acts as the private family home of the 9th Marquis de Piro. The rooms contain furniture, paintings and silver amongst other things and beneath the palace, you can also visit the Second World War air raid shelters.
Also on Republic Street, at the very end, is Fort St. Elmo, built in 1552. These fortifications helped to resist the Turkish attacks of the Great Siege of 1565 for a month. Within its walls is the National War Museum covering the period from the Knights departure in 1798 to the end of the Second World War.
Staying on the topic of conflict, Valletta is also home to the Lascaris War Rooms, where the islands defensive strategies were planned during World War Two. Displayed here are full size figures in World War Two period uniforms and costumes along with original equipment from the time such as charts, maps and battle-scene dioramas.
For an uninterrupted view of the Grand Harbour, the Upper Barrakka Gardens date from the Knights time on the island and now feature a number of monuments to personalities such as Lord Strickland, a former Prime Minister of Malta. The nearby Lower Barrakka Gardens, meanwhile, are a smaller version of the Upper Barrakka Gardens; both are free to enter.
Below the Upper Barrakka Gardens is The Saluting Battery, another of the surviving architectural structures of the Knights of St. John. It was built in the 16th century as part of Valletta’s main defenses and was in use up until as recently as 40 years ago. You can look down upon it from the Upper Barrakka Gardens and hear the noon day gun fired or for a chance to load one of the old cannons yourself, for a small charge you can enter the battery itself.
Close to the Upper Barrakka Gardens is the St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, which includes a small theatre where performances take place. There is also an art gallery here, featuring changing exhibitions, which is free to enter.
Also of interest if you are walking around Valletta is the market on Merchants Street, which takes place daily except on Sundays.
In nearby Attard (part of what are called the Three Villages), another set of gardens are worth a visit, San Anton Gardens, first laid out by Grand Master Antoine de Paule who became Grand Master in 1623. Plants include Norfolk Pines, bourgainvillia and roses and you will also find San Anton Palace here but this can not be visited as it is now home to the President.
The Three Cities
From the Upper Barrakka Gardens, you can see Vittoriosa, Cospicua and Senglea, known collectively as the Three Cities, where the Knights first settled when they came to Malta. Atop the walls of Senglea, in particular, you can admire the look-out tower featuring a carved eye and ear to symbolise that the Maltese were always watching and listening for invaders.
In Vittoriosa is The Malta Maritime Museum. Housed in the former Naval Bakery, the building was designed by British architect William Scamp and was built between 1842 and 1845. The collections look not only at Maltese maritime heritage but also seafaring on a worldy scale. Amongst its offerings, the attraction features a display of models of traditional Maltese boats and a collection of artefacts that reflect the history of the Royal Navy, Malta being home to the British Mediterranean Fleet for almost 200 years.
Also in Vittoriosa, the Malta at War Museum looks at Malta during the Second World War and includes a mass of tunnels that the Maltese built themselves into the rock to shelter from air raids during World War Two. A guided tour of these is included in the entrance fee whilst the viewing of a film featuring original footage from the war also forms part of the experience. The Maltese people put up such a good fight against the Germans during World War Two that they were awarded the George Cross for bravery in 1942 by King George VI.
Just up the road, the Inquisitor’s Palace can also be visited and provides a sober reminder of how those who opposed the Catholic faith were tortured during the times of the Knights of St. John,
Near Vittoriosa is another military attraction, Fort Rinella. It was built in 1878 by the British to house the world’s largest muzzle-loading cannon and was one of four 100-ton gun batteries built in Malta and Gibraltar between 1878 and 1886 to protect British trade in the Mediterranean. Animated guided tours take place throughout the year where visitors are taken around the fort by volunteers dressed as late 19th century Victorian soldiers and start with the firing of an original Victoria cannon – you also have the opportunity to fire it yourself.
Also not far from Vittoriosa are the Tarxien Temples, a four temple complex built some time in either the 4th or 3rd century BC – exactly when is open to debate – during an extended period of megalithic temple building on the island dedicated to the goddess of fertility. Said to be the most intricately decorated of the temples in Malta, it features an elaborate system of carved spirals and animal motifs.
Just nearby, the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum is an intriguing site. A labyrinth of underground chambers hewn out of the rock, there is some mystery surrounding its use, but it is thought it served as a burial site and sanctuary dating back to a similar time as the Tarxien Temples.
The ancient capital, Mdina
Before the current capital Valletta was created, Mdina, on the opposite side of Malta, was the capital of the island. In 1693 much of it was destroyed by an earthquake but thanks to the Knights, who created many palaces and churches here, it is now described as one of the most beautiful examples of an inhabited medieval citadel in Europe. If you visit, you’ll find it easy to see why it has earned the name the Silent City, as the peaceful narrow streets are largely uncrowded. You’ll see watch towers dotted across Malta, which the Knights constructed to protect the island. If a threat of invasion was spotted, then flags would go up during the day and fires were lit at night from these towers, warning the Maltese population that they would need to get to Mdina before the gates were shut and they became prisoners of the invaders.
The citadel includes a number of attractions such as its Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. The present structure was designed in the baroque style by Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa and built in 1697. Admission is free.
The Museum of Natural History is also found in Mdina, housed within a palace built by Grand Master Vilhena in the 18th century. It is split into sections covering subjects such as local and foreign fish, insects, birds and fossils.
The audio visual Mdina Experience, meanwhile, similar to The Malta Experience, will give you a good grounding on the history of the citadel.
In the surrounding suburb of Rabat (not to be confused with Victoria on Gozo, which is also sometimes referred to as Rabat), a number of catacombs can be found, underground Christian cemeteries, common in the 4th century AD. St. Paul’s Catacombs are the largest of these and a free audio guide is included in the admission price, which helps you to navigate your way around the narrow passages, explaining the history behind them. Amongst its features are round tables, known as ‘agape’ tables, where parents and friends enjoyed farewell meals in honour of their deceased loved ones. Across the road, St Agatha’s Catacombs are a similar example of these underground burial places and groups can arrange a visit with the priest here.
The Museum of Roman Antiquities – (Domus Romanus) is also found in Rabat and includes fragments of Roman mosaics that the present museum building has been built over.
In nearby Mosta, the Mosta Dome is visible from almost any vantage point in Malta and its facade is similar to that of the Pantheon in Rome. Completed in 1863, one of the most well known stories surrounding its existence is the fact that a bomb was dropped on the structure in World War Two, falling through the roof but failing to explode! There is now a replica of this bomb on display. Entrance is free.
A short drive away, the Ta’Qali Craft Village makes a nice stop off for those groups interested in purchasing a range of crafts. Manufacturers include Mdina Glass, where you can watch glass blowing taking place and discounts on purchases can be arranged for groups.
To the south of the island
Touching again on the megalithic period, two further temples sit at the south end of Malta, near Qrendi. The first, Hagar Qim, overlooks the Mediterannean sea and dates back to circa 3200 BC. It features huge limestone blocks and is made up of various chambers and passageways.
The Mnajdra Temples, 500 metres from Hagar Qim – its twin site – date from the same period and have similar features such as stone altars.
The Blue Grotto, on the south coast, meanwhile, is a good place to view coral in the deep blue water and groups can enjoy boat trips around the area to fully appreciate it.
Further east, near Marsaxlokk, groups can visit the Ghar Dalam Cave and Museum. The cave was used by the first inhabitants of Malta in 5000 BC and a number of fossilised remains of animals such as dwarf elephants and hippopotami are found here, proving that Malta was once attached to Sicily and the European continent.
Marsaxlokk itself is one of the largest fishing villages on the island and a daily fish market takes place here, with one held on Sundays on a larger scale. Like many places on the island, you can still see the traditional Maltese fishing boats, luzzu, painted with the eye of Osiris – the ancient Egyptian god. Believed to give protection, the tradition dates back to Phonecian times. Painted in striking red, green, blue and yellow colours, a smaller version, the kajikk, can also be seen around the island.
Gozo and Comino
A short ferry trip from the main island of Malta is the smaller island of Gozo. You’ll find just as much history here but the landscape is noticeably more green and fertile than that of Malta, which tends to be drier. The island has lots of interesting terrain for walking groups and horse riding is also possible.
One of Gozo’s most well known attractions are the Ggantija Temples, made up of two temples dating from around 3600 BC, making then older than Stonehenge. Legend has it that a giant called Sansuna carried the stones here on her head from Ta’Cenc on the island.
In the nearby capital Victoria (or Rabat), the Citadel dates back to medieval times and is built on the highest point of the island. Inside is the Cathedral, built by Lorenzo Gafa, which contains tromp l’oeil artwork. The Citadel is also home to several museums including the Cathedral Museum (entry to this is included in the Cathedral ticket) and the Museum of Archaeology. There is also a craft village, which groups are free to wander through, perusing the different items on display such as pottery and lace.
Further round the coast to the west are two natural phenomena, the Azure Window and Fungus Rock. The Azure Window is a result of erosion by the sea creating two huge columns, around 40 metres in diameter each, supporting a horizontal block about 100 metres long, resembling a giant window. The sea, an azure colour, runs underneath it, hence the name.
The Fungus Rock (or Il-Gebla tal General – the General’s Rock in Maltese) was the only place on the islands where a fungus – fungus gaulitanus – grew that was seen as precious by the Knights of St John due to its medicinal properties. Anyone caught picking it illegally was condemned to death! You can visit both sites either by coach or on a boat trip.
Just next to the Azure Window is the Inland Sea, an inlet where a natural tunnel through the rock leads out into the Mediterranean. Small rowing boats can be hired to take your group through this interesting passageway and the area is also popular with diving groups.
Nearby, the Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village is another place where your group can stop off to make purchases, and discounts can be negotiated.
The island of Comino, meanwhile, in between Malta and Gozo, is largely uninhabited; in fact only one family live on the island. The Blue Lagoon here is a popular stop. A natural swimming pool, groups can arrange a boat trip and take a dip in the waters.
How to get there
The national airline of Malta is Air Malta, offering daily flights to Malta International Airport in Valletta from Heathrow, Gatwick and weekly flights from Stansted as well as regular flights from a number of regional airports. GB Airways also operates a daily service from Gatwick to Malta International Airport.
Our thanks to Belleair Holidays for their hospitality to Abbe Bates during her visit to Malta.
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION
Malta Tourist Office
Park House, 14 Northfields
London SW18 1DD
Telephone: +44 (0)20 8877 6990
Fax: +44 (0)20 8874 9416
Email: office.uk@visitmalta.com
Web: www.visitmalta.com