Peru: the South American dream
From the world famous Machu Picchu to the less well-travelled Amazon rainforest, Peru is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination. Freddie Sumption explores some of what the country can offer groups.
In Quechua, the language of the Incas, Peru means the ‘land of abundance’. For its countrymen, this means a wealth of natural products such as silver, gold and petroleum, which provide the country with much of its income. For the group visitor, it means geographical and archaeological diversity unrivalled in South America. Vast expanses of Amazon rainforest, arid desert plateaus, lush warm valleys and towering snowy peaks provide a backdrop for South America’s most complete Inca ruins, idyllic colonial towns and the famous Nazca Lines.
Although Peru still has high levels of poverty, conditions for visitors are far from squalid. Tourism is the bread and butter of many regions and great efforts are made to make sure that visitors’ needs are met, meaning that high quality accommodation and restaurants abound in all the main tourist areas.
Similarly, transport in Peru no longer means 24-hour bus rides along potholed roads in rickety buses with broken windows. The expansion of tourism and global trade mean that Peru now has around 250 airports, 3,000km of railway and roads are being continually modernised, so getting around has never been easier.
Peru’s climate is dictated largely by its landscape; in Lima and on the coast, the sun shines brightly between December and April, while the rest of the year is characterised by thick fog. In the Andes, May to October is the dry season with plenty of sunny days and spring-like temperatures from 9-18 degrees. The jungle has a tropical climate year-round with temperatures fluctuating between 26 and 40 degrees.
Lima
Overlooking the Pacific ocean, Lima is Peru’s capital, and the point of arrival for most foreign visitors. Founded by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535, it was adopted as the official capital after the Peruvian War of Independence in the 1820s. The city and its suburbs are now home to a third of Peru’s 30 million inhabitants.
Although Lima has been built up considerably over the years, the colonial centre still remains, and a stroll around the town makes a good start to a group holiday. The Convento de San Francisco (St Francis Monastery) is interesting, with its fine 17th century architecture and underground catacombs, which are said to connect to the cathedral catacombs and those of other local churches. The Plaza Mayor, which houses the 16th century Cathedral and Presidential Palace is a pleasant place to sip a home-grown coffee and take in the surroundings.
Lima is home to the most prestigious Peruvian museums: The National Museum is the largest in the country, and indeed one of the largest in South America. Contained in a sprawling building close to the city centre, it provides a fairly exhaustive overview of Peruvian history and culture, with exhibits including archaeological remains from pre-Spanish life.
Another of Lima’s top attractions is The Gold Museum, home to the private collection of Miguel Mujica Gallo, who spent years amassing it (often, reputedly, by purchasing relics from grave robbers). It features gold figures, jewellery, masks, knives and artefacts from the Inca and colonial periods, as well as mummies, headdresses and other ancient relics.
Upstairs from the Gold Museum is the equally fascinating Arms Museum, which houses weapons and armour from Peru’s many historic cultures. The collection includes items owned by the Spanish Pizarro brothers and South American liberator Simon Bol�var.
Lima is also Peru’s gastronomic centre; a local fishing tradition, combined with produce from the mountains and influences from a multicultural population means that the city has developed a unique culinary tradition. And, once you’ve converted your Sterling into Peruvian Sol, it certainly seems worth splashing out.
The Andean highlands
Bisecting the country from north to south, the Andean mountain range contains, for many visitors, Peru’s most alluring jewels.
Most groups fly straight from Lima to Cuzco (“belly button of the world” in Quecha), once the capital of the Inca empire. Cuzco welcomes a constant stream of visitors, who use the town as a base to visit the nearby Inca ruins of Machu Picchu and the ‘Sacred Valley’. However, the town is extremely popular in its own right, with its narrow cobbled streets, colonial architecture, striking scenery and western comforts, such as trendy cafes serving pancakes and frothy cappuccinos for breakfast. Indeed, many travellers can’t bring themselves to leave, resulting in ‘gringos’, as foreigners are affectionately known.
Once in Cuzco, most groups can spend a day or two exploring the Sacred Valley, which was at the heart of the Inca empire in the 14th and 15th centuries. One of the highlights is Pisac, a mountaintop complex (reached by a two-hour, uphill hike) with temples of the sun, moon, rain, rainbow, and stars. Another highlight is Ollantaytambo, a strategic outpost for defence, as well as a religious centre. It is here that Inca ruler Manco Inca retreated after his defeat by the Spanish.
A day’s journey from Cuzco by bus or train, but absolutely worth the trip, will take you to Puno, said to be the birthplace of the Inca empire. The town sits on the edge of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake at 12,400 feet above sea level. Cruises operate from here across the lake, which is shared with Bolivia, stopping off at some of the many islands with ancient ruins.
From Puno, groups could travel to Peru’s second largest town, Arequipa, known for its glistening white buildings made from volcanic rock. Most people who visit Arequipa take a tour out to the Canon de Colca, one of the worlds deepest canyons formed by an enormous seismic fault between two volcanoes; groups can take a dip in the thermal springs and admire the views of the smoking Sabancaya volcano.
Also in the highlands, Huascaran National Park is a good opportunity to indulge in a spot of adventure at altitude. The Park takes its name from Huascaran, Peru’s highest mountain at 6768m above sea-level, and contains 663 glaciers and 296 lakes as well as archaeological ruins. It is also home to hundreds of species of Andean plants and birds and several endangered mammals including the Andean Cat and the Spectacled Bear. Horse riding, skiing and guided archaeological excursions are all popular here.
Machu Picchu
Forty-four miles northwest of Cuzco, Machu Picchu is probably the most familiar symbol of the Inca Empire. Built around 1450, it was abandoned less than 100 years later, at the time of the Spanish conquest. Unlike most Inca sites, it was never found and destroyed by the Spanish, and lay hidden by undergrowth until being brought to the world’s attention in 1911, by American historian Hiram Bingham.
Set on a plateau surrounded by striking peaks, the complex comprises 140 constructions including temples, sanctuaries, parks and over 100 flights of stone steps – some carved from a single block of granite. How the stones were moved and carved with such primitive equipment remains a mystery and the reason the site has been designated one of the ‘New Seven Wonders of the World’.
To get to Machu Picchu, most groups take the train to the bottom of the mountain then take the bus to the ruins (a steep climb with 13 hairpin bends). It is also possible to walk the 5 mile (2 hour) route from the station. Very fit and adventurous groups could hike the four-day Inca Trail all the way from Cuzco.
Peru’s desert coast
As its name suggests, the coast of Peru is mainly desert, and most groups come here with one thing in mind; the Nazca Lines. So called because they were created by the Nazca culture (200 BC to 700 AD), the ‘lines’ are a series of geoglyphs etched into a high arid plateau between the towns of Nazca and Palpa. They form hundreds of figures, ranging in complexity from simple lines to hummingbirds, spiders, monkeys, fish, sharks, llamas and lizards – all so large that they can only be recognised as figures from the air.
To see the Lines, groups must book a flight departing from the town of Nazca. The tour lasts 45 minutes and the pilot will take you up to around 900 feet, circle around a figure allowing plenty of time for photographs, then move on to the next. Bear in mind that the flight can be pretty bumpy, with sharp turns, so anyone squeamish or prone to airsickness might want to think twice – or go in the morning when the air is calmer.
Between Nazca and Lima, Ica makes a good stop-off point on the journey between the two. Situated in the middle of dune-filled deserts on the banks of the Ica River, it is known by Peruvians as the ‘land of the sun’, thanks to its year-round, warm, dry climate. It is a good base for exploring some of the local distilleries where ‘Pisco’, a grape brandy and the main ingredient of the Peruvian cocktail ‘Pisco Sour’ is made. Group visitors to this region can also try out sand boarding (like snowboarding but on sand dunes). At the time of writing, Ica was still suffering the effects of the 2007 earthquake, in which much of the town was damaged. However, bus services have recently been resumed and the town is gradually opening up to tourism again.
The Ica region is also home to the Paracas National Reserve, including the Ballestas Islands. Described as the ‘Galapagos of Peru’, the islands are characterised by dramatic cliffs and rock formations and are home to crabs, sea lions, orcas, whales, sea turtles and sea otters, while over 200 species of birds visit the area, including the Humboldt penguin, boobies, flamingos and petrels. Groups can explore the islands on a day cruise.
The Amazon jungle
Despite claiming half of the country’s land space, the Peru’s Amazon basin is relatively new to tourism. However, some towns on the edge of the rainforest are starting to carve out a niche for themselves, providing trips into the jungle ranging from a single day to a week or more. The most established of these towns is Iquitos, in the north of the country. Built on the banks of a mile-wide river, it features a floating market, floating restaurants and several crafts markets.
From here you can take a one-day, out-and-back river tour on a dugout canoe, or travel by motorised canoe to a more remote jungle ‘lodge’, where you can stay a night or several. Many of these lodges are far more upmarket than their name suggests – some even have full facilities for the disabled.
Whichever option you choose, a guided walk along a jungle trail is a must – guides will introduce you to some of the thousands of native plant species of the Amazon and demonstrate how they are used by local communities. Many are used as building materials, some as food, and others as anaesthetics, medicines, or even recreational drugs.
The forest is also home to creatures such as black caimans, pink dolphins, giant river turtles and monkeys. Those groups who stay overnight might even be able to catch sight of the elusive jaguar. In general, the deeper into the jungle you go, the more fauna you are likely to see.
Shopping
Groups visiting Peru will have no shortage of souvenir ideas. Textiles are the most popular buy, including garments such as hats, scarves, gloves and jumpers made from soft alpaca wool. ‘Alpaca bebe’ refers to the wool taken from the throat of the animal, where it is finest and softest, (not baby alpacas). Peru also has a long-standing weaving tradition, and tapestries and rugs make excellent, value-for money souvenirs.
Gold and silver are other popular purchases too, but make sure you buy from a reputable dealer who will give you a guarantee. Some visitors also take home reproductions of pre-Columbian ceramics, with gourds being the favourite.
Brazil nuts make good edible gifts. Fresh Brazils are tastier than processed nuts as they still contain many of their natural oils, and large bags can be bought very cheaply, either plain or sugar-coated.
If time is limited, you can do all your shopping under one roof at Lima’s Indio Market, where you will find a selection of handicrafts from all over the country.
When shopping in markets, it is normal to haggle. Vendors expect it and will increase their prices accordingly – so there’s no need to feel guilty!
How to get there
There are no direct scheduled flights from the UK to Peru at present but Iberia fly via Madrid from London Heathrow and Gatwick, American Airlines via JFK in New York and/or Miami from Heathrow and Gatwick, KLM via Amsterdam from Manchester and Heathrow and Air Canada via Toronto from Heathrow; all operate several flights per week to Lima. Most groups are likely to travel with a tour operator that will arrange flights for you.
Images:
1© Domingo Giribaldi/PromPeru 2© Michael Tweddle/PromPeru 3© Terra Incognita/PromPeru 4© Domingo Giribaldi/PromPeru
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION
Giovanna Salini
Embassy of Peru
52 Sloane Street
London
SW1X 9SP
Tel: 020 7235 1917
E-mail: giovanna@peruembassy-uk.com
Web: http://peruembassy-uk.com/