Wake up to Graz
Abbe Bates visits this less talked about Austrian city and finds out that the former European Capital of Culture has, in fact, got plenty to shout about.
Although Graz is Austria’s second largest city, it is often wrongly overshadowed by the better known cities of Vienna and Salzburg. For a group visiting the capital of the province of Styria in the south east of the country, this can be a benefit as the area is largely free from crowds of tourists and can be discovered at a leisurely pace. Whilst the first mention of the city is recorded in the 12th century, it manages to retain a youthful air, due in no small part to the four large universities based here. It’s old town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 whilst many new developments were spurred on by Graz’s status as European Capital of Culture in 2003.
A good way to begin a stay in the city is to book a guided tour through the Graz Tourist Office. There are several options on offer taking in different aspects of Graz such as a walking tour of the inner courtyards, a feature of the city, which hide interesting designs such as Renaissance Sgraffito from the 16th century.
You can also get around the city easily by tram or bus and tickets that include both can be purchased. A good idea for any group is to purchase books of 10 ride tickets that can be shared out amongst members and validated by a machine onboard. An alternative treat is to book an open top bus ride around the city.
The historic old town
As you explore the old town of Graz, you will find it easy to understand why it is now a World Heritage Site as it has retained much of the original architecture from the days when the imperial Habsburg family resided here, up until the beginning of the 17th century, with many houses between 400 and 500 years old.
A good place to start is the Landhaushof, where Styrian provincial parliament sessions take place. Its Italian Renaissance courtyard is a highlight and is the setting for a number of outdoor performances such as free jazz concerts and Shakespeare plays. It is also possible to arrange to view the inside of the building, which is not normally open to the public.
Next door, you will find the Landeszeughaus or Armoury, part of nine sites that make up the Landesmuseum Joanneum, Austria’s second largest and oldest museum. It is the largest historical armoury in the world, dating from the 1630s, and houses some 32,000 pieces of original armour, helmets and weapons displayed as they would have been at the time of the armoury’s foundation. On the ground floor, a small exhibition also takes you through Styria’s military history. A combined one or two-day ticket giving entry to all the Landesmuseum Joanneum’s sites is available, with discounts for groups of seven or more people.
A few streets away is the Burg or Castle, former residence of the Habsburg court, which was begun in 1438, and is now the seat of the provincial governor. Here, you will find a double winding staircase, dating from 1499, famous in the city and seen as a masterpiece of late Gothic masonry.
Just behind the Burg is the Stadtpark, Graz’s municipal park,which stretches around the old town for more than a kilometre. Here you will find numerous statues of important figures from Graz’s intellectual set as well as a cast iron fountain bought at the World Fair in Vienna in 1873. This is set off by a more modern fountain designed in 1985, and known rather cynically as the ‘rusty nail’.
The nearby Dom or Cathedral was built in the 15th century by order of Emperor Frederick III and its most well known feature is a wall painting called ‘The Plagues of God’, depicting Graz’s terrible year of 1480, when the city was hit by a plaque of locusts, the invasion of the Turks and the Black Death!
Adjacent to the Dom is the Mausoleum, built for Emperor Ferdinand II in the early 17th century. There is a small charge to enter this attraction and groups should check before visiting as it is only open on certain days.
Nearby, the Gasthaus Stainzerbauer offers the opportunity for winetasting in its cellar for up to 12 people at a time, that can also be combined with a typical Styrian meal in the setting where people have dined since the time of the Habsburgs.
A short walk south brings you to Kaiser-Josef-Platz, which is definitely worth a stop as there is a regular farmers’ market held here from Monday to Saturday between 6am and 1pm where you can pick up all sorts of local specialities including pumpkin seed oil.
Back into the heart of the old town and another ideal stop is the Glockenspiel, where every day at 11am, 3pm and 6pm, two wooden figures in traditional Styrian costume emerge from an upper floor window and dance to the music of 24 little bells, a spectacle that has taken place since 1905.
Just around the corner is the area known as the Bermudadreieck or Bermuda Triangle, so called due to the tendency to ‘lose’ yourself amongst the numerous bars, cafes and restaurants here.
For panoramic views of the old town, and further afield – on a clear day you can see as far as Slovenia – make your way up the Schlossberg, the nearly 500-metre high green hill that overlooks the city. Once the site of an imposing fortress, built to defend the hill from the Turks, it was largely destroyed by order of Napoleon. All that remain are the Clock Tower and the Bell Tower.
The Glockenturm or Bell Tower was built in 1588 and groups can enter the building on a guided tour of the city. It contains what is said to be the third heaviest bell in Austria, at 4,632 kilogrammes, and is known by locals as ‘Liesl’, chiming three times a day.
The Uhrturm or Clock Tower, meanwhile, as you see it today dates back to the 16th century, whilst the clockwork mechanism has worked since the 18th century. It is the main landmark of the city and Graz residents and visitors alike can set their watches by it. It is unusual in that it originally only had one hand telling the hour with the second hand added in the 19th century. Consequently, the minute hand is the shorter!
At the top of the Schlossberg you can also find the Kasematten, the former cellars of a Romanesque chapel that are now the setting for open air music and theatre events, as well as an an outdoor restaurant, which welcomes groups.
There are three ways to reach the summit; you can choose the energetic way and climb up a series of 260 steep stairs – Schlossbergstiege – you can take the Schlossbergbahn or Schlossberg Funicular, which is included in the price of a tram ticket, or you can take the glass lift, which takes you through the rocky interior. A fee is charged for the lift but this is discounted for groups as well as a free place being given for groups of 20 or more.
The Schlossberg also hides a series of tunnels, begun during the Second World War to act as air raid shelters and you can use one particular route as a short cut to get from Schlossbergplatz to Karmeliterplatz. Amidst these tunnels is the Dom Im Berg, the underground setting for numerous concerts due to its fantastic acoustics.
Rejuvenation across the Mur
Winding its way through the centre of Graz is the River Mur. Before the city became European Capital of Culture in 2003, the area on the right side of the Mur was seen as slightly more ‘down market’ than the area on the left bank, which covers most of the old town. This has all changed since then and at the centre of this renaissance is the Kunsthaus, which opened in September 2003. The main building was designed by British architects Peter Cook and Colin Fournier and its contemporary design is remarkable. It has been dubbed the ‘Friendly Alien’ and aesthetically aims to resemble something from outer space. It features a series of nozzles on its roof that act as skylights, with one looking directly at the Clock Tower to link both the older and newer landmarks together and has a ‘skin’ of blue acrylic panels that create a bubble-like shape and light up at night. The way this part of the structure is balanced on top of a smaller glass ground floor does make it look like something has ‘landed’. It also feature a glass upper level called the ‘Needle’ that sticks out of part of the roof and has managed to incorporate part of the previous 19th century cast iron building that stood in its place. Whilst being a very modern structure, it manages to fit into the more ancient landscape and has even been placed so that the red-brick roofs of the old town are reflected in its facade. The Kunsthaus specialises in contemporary art from the last five decades and houses a series of changing exhibitions and includes a section called Camera Austria, dedicated to photography. The site is part of the Landesmuseum Joanneum and guided tours for 20 people at a time can be arranged that cover specific themes such as architecture; it is also possible to arrange behind the scenes guided tours when there is no main exhibition on to gain an insight into the workings of the building.
Also built for the European Capital of Culture year was the Island in the Mur, which sits atop the River Mur, and rises and falls with the flow of the river. Two walkways connect the main body, which resembles a half open shell and has a coffee shop at its centre. It is also the setting for free outdoor performances as it also houses a small amphitheatre.
Just past here, on the left bank of the River Mur is the Franciscan Quarter, also known as the ‘calf district’ because of its history as the location of butchers and sausage vendors. The Franciscan Monastery here is also worth a look.
Into the suburbs
Further out of the city centre, into the wider suburbs of Graz, there are also a number of interesting attractions.
In the north west of Graz is the Schloss-und Schlusselmuseum or Lock and Key Museum, which provides a fascinating look at what is described as Europe’s largest collection of locks, keys, boxes, chests and wrought iron objects. A new floor dedicated to items of this sort from Africa and Asia opened at the end of this month and guided tours for groups of 20 at a time are available as well as evening and out of hours tours for groups of 10 or more people.
Part of the Landesmuseum Joanneum, Schloss Eggenberg, in the west of Graz, is a 17th century palace built for Prince Johann Ulrich von Eggenberg. Its construction was based on an unusual concept, to represent astronomical thinking; it has four towers to mirror the seasons, 12 gates for the months of the year and 365 windows for the days of the year. A guided tour of the State Rooms is included in the admission price, the highlight of which is the Planetensaal, with its ceiling and wall paintings depicting the seven planets known at the time and the 12 signs of the zodiac. Also at the palace is the Alte Galerie, which relocated here in 2005. As well as a temporary exhibition space, it includes a permanent exhibition looking at Austrian and European art from the late 13th to the 18th century, arranged thematically. It is wise if visiting to purchase a one euro booklet, which takes you through the paintings, as the interpretation is in German. Guided tours are also available. Other attractions at the site include a Coin Cabinet, looking at coins circulating in Styria since Roman times, due to re-open in October after a re-display, and a Planetgarden, whose design is also based on the seven classical planets. If your group would prefer to wander around the surrounding park, you can pay a small fee for entrance to the grounds and Planetgarden only.
In the north east of the city, the Botanical Garden with its glasshouses designed by Austrian architect Volker Giencke is also an attractive option.
Outside Graz
Further afield still, in the valleys surrounding Graz, are several sites of interest that can be enjoyed on an excursion.
The Osterreichisches Freilichtmuseum or Austrian Open Air Museum in Stubing, to the north of Graz, consists of around 90 traditional farmhouses from all over the country, set out in order of region from the Burgenland in the east to the most western province of Austria, Vorarlberg. Nearly all the houses have been taken from their original settings and rebuilt at the site. Daily demonstrations of activities such as bread making take place along with special events such as a herb week. Packages for groups are offered that include options such as admission, a guided tour and an activity like the carving of traditional nails. Groups of 20 or more are offered discounted rates of admission with every 21st person free and evening tours and out of hours tours are also available.
Not far from here is Stift Rein, believed to be the world’s oldest continuously working Cistercian monastery, founded in 1129. Entrance is free as with all churches in the Graz area, but it is worthwhile booking a guided tour with one of the monks that reside here for an extra charge that take in areas such as the library, which you can only see on a tour. A display of the recently excavated bones of what is believed to be the monastery’s founder opened earlier this year is an interesting highlight. It is possible to book a combined package, including admission and guided tours at the Open Air Museum and the monastery.
Other attractions that should be considered are the Schloss Stainz, to the east of Graz, inhabited by the Counts of Merano and which now houses the Hunting Museum, part of the Landesmuseum Joanneum and the Benedictine Monastery Admont, said to have the world’s largest monastery library and dating back to 1074. Group rates are available at both.
The Graz Tourist Office also offers a selection of tours for groups of 20 or more with your own coach that include admission prices and guides such as ‘South Styrian Wine Route’, which includes visits to a winery and wine cellar to gain an insight into the history of wine making in Styria, and ‘West Styria’, which includes a visit to the Piber stud farm where the famous Lipizzaner horses of the Spanish Riding School in Vienna are bred. It is also possible to have coach travel included in the packages.
A festival atmosphere
There are plenty of opportunities for groups to enjoy musical and artistic performances in Graz along with seasonal events.
The 19th century baroque Graz Opera House is home to Opera Graz, Ballet Graz and the Graz Philharmonic Orchestra, offering a range of performances throughout the year. Group discounts vary depending on the event.
For those who want to try their hand at gambling, meanwhile, Graz Casino, in the old town, offers a number of packages for groups.
The city is also home to a wide variety of festivals that take place throughout the year. Highlights for 2008 include springeight, a festival of electronic art and music in May, Styriarte in June and July, a festival of classical music, La Strada in July and August, an international festival of street artists and puppet theatre, which includes many free events, and steirischer herbst in October, an international festival of contemporary art.
Christmas in Graz, like many European cities, is also an eventful affair. Highlights include an ice sculpture nativity scene in the Landhaushof courtyard and several Christmas markets selling goods ranging from regional farm products to arts and crafts, set in locations such as the Franciscan quarter and Glockenspielplatz.
How to get there
By air, Ryanair operates regular direct flights to Graz’s Thalerhof airport from London Stansted whilst Austrian Airlines operates flights via Vienna from London Heathrow. It is also possible for the Graz Tourist Office to arrange coach transfers from Vienna to Graz for groups.
By rail, there are various different routes that can be taken but one of the easiest is to travel via Eurostar from London Waterloo (London St Pancras from November) to Paris, then travel via Strasbourg to Salzburg from where there are direct services to Graz on the OBB (Austrian Federal Railways) network.
By road, Graz is approximately 910 miles from London travelling via the Channel ports to France and then on through Belgium, Holland and Germany. Our thanks to the Graz Tourist Office for its hospitality to Abbe Bates during her visit to Graz.
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION
Susanne Holler, Graz Tourist Office, Messeplatz 1,
Messeturm 8010 Graz, Austria
Telephone: 00 43 316 8075 400
Fax: 00 43 316 8075 350
Email: sh@graztourismus.at
Web: www.visitgraz.com