Portsmouth: Beyond the Dockyard
From the 16th century warship, the ‘Mary Rose’, to the futuristic Spinnaker Tower and Southsea, Portsmouth offers many opportunities for a group visit. Carrie Drage discovers more.
Historically, Portsmouth was an important naval port for centuries and most visitors to the Hampshire city are familiar with Portsmouth Historic Dockyard, home to Nelson’s flagship ‘HMS Victory’ and King Henry VIII’s ‘Mary Rose’. Despite the obvious appeal of such attractions, the city has much more to offer groups.
With its numerous coach facilities – all well-placed for exploring the city’s main attractions – Portsmouth caters well for the group market. A programme of guided walks are available on a number of different themes, including one that guide visitors past literary attractions such as Charles Dickens Birthplace, preserved as a museum, and City Museum, featuring a new exhibition based on the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes, created by former Southsea resident Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. Walking and coach tours can be tailor-made for GTOs. Alternatively, a novel way to see the city during the summer is to board the Land Train, which travels a circular route between Old Portsmouth and Southsea. Group discounts are widely available at the city’s visitor attractions.
Southsea uncovered
Southsea is an area of the city that is often overlooked by groups, despite offering a wealth of activities. Its main draw is the four-mile long shingle beach, which stretches from Eastney to Old Portsmouth, although the area also boasts a vast number green spaces, including Southsea Common, host to a number of seasonal public events. In addition, the area offers a vibrant mix of restaurants, bars and cafes, some offering specially priced meal packages for coach parties. The Pyramids Leisure Centre cafe is particularly popular for its views across the Solent. Accommodation in Southsea ranges from budget university lodgings to luxury four-star hotels, making it a good base for groups. In fact, the area comes alive at night when the promenade becomes illuminated. The evenings are also a good time to take in a stage production at one of the city’s two theatre venues – the Kings Theatre and the New Theatre Royal – or a musical performance at The Wedgwood Rooms or Guildhall.
A short way across Southsea Common, groups will find the main shopping precinct, Palmerston Road, frequented monthly by Sunday Farmers Markets. Palmerston Road is also the best place to head for leading high street brands although the adjoining Marmion Road and Albert Road are ideal for more unusual finds.
By day, Southsea also offers six visitor attractions to explore. The Royal Marines Museum is housed in a former Officers’ Mess building, which once formed part of the Royal Marines Eastney Barracks. It recently opened a new permanent exhibition, ‘The Making of the Royal Marines Commando’, which looks at what goes into training a Royal Marine Commando, and plans to develop a new photographic exhibition area in time for its 50th anniversary celebrations in October.
Heading west along the promenade, groups will find the D-Day Museum, which incorporates exhibits exploring the role Southsea beach and Portsmouth Harbour played as military embarkation points for the D-Day landings on June 6th 1944. The centrepiece of the Museum is the 80-metre long Overlord Embroidery, which portrays the events of D-Day and the Battle of Normandy.
A short way away, Southsea Castle is best known as the base from which King Henry VIII watched the ‘Mary Rose’ sink in 1545. Groups can enter the underground tunnel here to discover what it must have been like to defend the Castle against invaders , see the lighthouse or climb to the top of the Keep for panoramic views of one of Britain’s busiest shipping channels.
Although the venue is smaller in comparison, Southsea seafront also features a Blue Reef Aquarium, with an underwater viewing tunnel.
Of similar proportion are the Natural History Museum at Cumberland House, which features a butterfly house during the months of May to September, and Eastney Beam Engine House, open to the public one weekend a month, when visitors can watch a duo of ‘James Watt’ beam engines in operation. Groups can arrange out-of-hours guided visits by request, although the museum is unable to run the beam engines on these days.
Where old meets new
Old Portsmouth with its cobbled streets, historic pubs and ancient sea defences is best explored by following the city’s Renaissance Trail. Beginning at Spur Redoubt, the point on the fortifications at which well-wishers gathered to bid farewell to Nelson on his way to the Battle of Trafalgar, the trail leads you past the Square Tower and Round Tower, built in the 15th century to defend Portsmouth Harbour from French invasions. The path is marked by a chain effect set into the paving and interpretation panels can be found along the way. A slight deviation will allow you to take in Portsmouth Anglican Cathedral, with origins dating back to the 12th century. Its programme of ‘Lunchtime Live!’ performances, complete with refreshments, comprise a series of organ, vocal and ensemble recitals.
Continuing on the Renaissance Trail, the path eventually takes you to Portsmouth Historic Dockyard although not before first passing through Gunwharf Quays. Here, groups will find the Spinnaker Tower. Standing 170 metres tall, it offers views towards nearby Chichester, the South Downs and the Isle of Wight from one of its three viewing decks. As an added incentive for groups, the Tower recently introduced a new ‘meet and greet’ service.
A more recent addition to Gunwharf Quays is the Aspex Gallery, housed in a modern conversion of a former naval storehouse. The free contemporary art and photographic gallery features changing exhibitions of work by new and emerging artists.
But no visit to the Quays would be complete without a browse through some of its 90 designer outlets stores, which include Polo Ralph Lauren. However, if designer goods are not your thing, groups can take a short stroll to Portsmouth city centre where Commercial Road and its Cascades shopping centre offer a multitude of high street brands. There is also a traditional street market in Commercial Road, Thursday to Saturday, every week.
Navy – past, present and future
Portsmouth is quite rightly proud of its maritime heritage and although the city has declined as a military port in recent years, Portsmouth Historic Dockyard serves as a reminder of its earlier significance. As a whole, it explores more than 800 years of maritime history. The Dockyard is probably most famous for its three ships – the wreck of the ‘Mary Rose’, Nelson’s ‘HMS Victory’ and ‘HMS Warrior’ – although there is much more to discover.
To trace the roots of the Royal Navy, visitors should head to the Royal Naval Museum at the Dockyard. A highlight on a visit to the attraction is the Victory Gallery, home to the ‘Trafalgar!’ audio-visual experience, which recreates scenes from the Battle of Trafalgar.
Portsmouth still remains a busy operational naval base for the Royal Navy and to learn more about the skills, technology and science used, groups can visit Action Stations, housed in a former boathouse. Among its many interactive exhibits is a replica Merlin helicopter simulator.
Additionally, the Dockyard offers 45-minute Harbour Tours, which show visitors the modern naval fleet from the water, including Britain’s three aircraft carriers – ‘HMS Ark Royal’, ‘HMS Illustrious’ and ‘HMS Invincible’.
Single attraction or all-inclusive tickets can be purchased for groups, as well as joint tickets that include entry to the Spinnaker Tower and every attraction at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. In addition to its numerous individually-run attractions, the site also features several cafes, tearooms and retail outlets, including the recently opened Antiques Storehouse.
An eventful visit
In addition to its main attractions, Portsmouth also hosts a number of year-round events that can provide added value on a trip.
Coming up in October is the annual Seafarers event, which honours all the men and women that have served at sea or will go to sea in the future. The event features a series of wreath laying ceremonies, including a wreath laid at the Nelson statue, on Grand Parade in Old Portsmouth.
In November, the most notable event is Remembrance Sunday when crowds congregate at the war memorial on Southsea Common and at the Guildhall Square whilst December sees an evening of carols and a visit from Father Christmas here, with a number of local schoolchildren taking centre stage at the Schools Carols event. Equally enjoyable is the Victorian Festival of Christmas at the Historic Dockyard.
Looking ahead to next year, May sees the return of the annual Mayor Making event featuring a traditional ceremony to appoint the new Lord Mayor of Portsmouth.
Also kicking off this month will be the Live at the Bandstand programme. Every Sunday until the end of August, a range of different acts will perform at the Bandstand, on Southsea seafront.
July, meanwhile, has three events that are always well attended – the Tea Dance on Guildhall Square, Opera in the Park at Victoria Park and Veterans Day on Southsea Common.
All events are free to attend except the Victorian Festival of Christmas for which there is a charge, although a discount is offered for groups.
Our thanks to Portsmouth City Council and Mozzarella Joes for their hospitality to Carrie Drage during her visit.
Dr Harold Goodwin is Professor of Responsible Tourism Management and Co-Director of the International Centre for Responsible Tourism at Leeds Metropolitan University . He is also an advisor to World Travel Market on World Responsible Tourism Day and has worked as a consultant and researcher for organisations including the Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO), the Federation of Tour Operators (FTO) and the UN World Tourism Organization.
Harold says… “We are all increasingly aware of the impact of travel on our climate – and travel is getting more expensive. Carrie Drage has discovered the distinctive and the exotic in Portsmouth – and you can step back in time and have an experience of the past at the Dockyard. If you buy local food and drink and souvenirs you can have a positive impact on the local economy and take home a real memory of the place and what makes Portsmouth special. The festivals provide a great opportunity to experience the place with its residents and to share in their enjoyment of the local culture.” Harold Goodwin, ICRT Leeds Metropolitan University www.icrtourism.org